The joy of Georgian supra
The tradition of 'supra' is a major factor in Georgia's reputation for generous hospitality and the country's wines are an integral part of proceedings. David Kermode examines the cultural significance and highlights six wines from a recent IWSC judging that would make perfect partners to the ritual feast
WORDS BY DAVID KERMODE
Georgia has long suffered at the hands of its covetous neighbours, yet its unfortunate history of invasion and occupation has somehow, perversely, resulted in it being one of the most welcoming places on earth. The country’s reputation for lavish hospitality has almost everything to do with the ‘supra’, a culinary ritual with wine at its heart. So how does this ritual feast unfold and what are the best wines to pair with Georgian food?The name ‘supra’ translates as ‘tablecloth’, a somewhat unremarkable word for a seemingly unending celebration that sees the table disappear under dozens of dishes, many stacked on top of each other such is the lack of space. Before I visited the country, I assumed it was an occasional blowout, much like Christmas or Thanksgiving but no… the supra is a regular occurrence, with invitations extended to family, friends and neighbours, even complete strangers. Delicious dishes just keep on coming – from bread boats filled with egg and cheese, to sliced meats, entire grilled fish, market-fresh vegetables and salads brimming with walnuts and herbs – until there’s so much left uneaten that the host knows that their guests are satiated. Though it sounds like a celebration of gluttony of which Henry VIII might have been proud, the reality is rather different thanks to the ‘tamada’ or toastmaster: a respected raconteur whose role is to deliver a series of warm and thought-provoking toasts that punctuate proceedings and afford a sense of pace.Georgia’s extraordinary arsenal of indigenous grape varieties, together with the impressive range of wine styles, provide the perfect partners for the country’s rich and varied cuisineIt would not be a supra without the wine that accompanies the signature dishes. Georgia’s extraordinary arsenal of indigenous grape varieties, of which there are more than 500, together with the impressive range of wine styles, provide the perfect partners for the country’s rich and varied cuisine.‘The supra isn’t just some quaint custom that they wheel out for tourists. The importance to Georgian culture of feasting, hospitality and forging connections cannot be overstated,’ says Master of Wine, Sarah Abbott, a regular visitor to the country for more than a decade. ‘A Georgian once said to me “the reason we do this is that the joy makes us strong” and you have to remember that it’s a place that has been invaded but also enriched, by the different cultures around them. It is easy to feast in Georgia because it is a place of grace with all the produce for feasting, the vines for the wines, growing nearby.’Such is the appeal of Georgian food that it is baffling it has not been adopted more widely around the world, in the manner of Italian or French gastronomy. That’s slowly starting to change and London now features a select few highly regarded Georgian restaurants, including Kartuli in East Dulwich, established three years ago by Eka Cox who, with her British husband Richard, was already successfully importing wine.One of the integral parts of a supra is raising toasts in a structured manner‘Every Georgian and those who fall in love with our wonderful country will agree that the food culture deserves more recognition globally, especially in high class dining … Growing up in Georgia we had a supra every day, with it laid almost constantly on the dining table as you would never know who would visit. As per the old Georgian saying a guest is a gift from God, we naturally follow this wonderful tradition that we greet our guests with open hearts and wine and dine with them. This tradition is engraved in every Georgian’s DNA and it was my desire to create something similar in the UK, hence our restaurant and wine shop. In Georgia we never drink wine without food … homemade amber wine is most commonly served, which pairs with almost every Georgian dish due to its flavour profile,’ Cox tells me.‘One of the integral parts of a supra is raising toasts in a structured manner. The tamada must be a great leader and orator with a good knowledge of Georgian culture, such as poetry, legends and anecdotes, (who) will propose toasts, with the guests invited to expand on them with their own thoughts,’ she explains.Abbott agrees that the role of the tamada is pivotal to proceedings: ‘This may sound like an excruciating idea to your average, mildly repressed, English person but actually it’s really rather compelling and beautiful.’
